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A hot bubble bath can fix a lot: stressful days, sore muscles, store-bought tofu. No offense to tofu; it’s not you, it’s supermarkets. No one would want to spend weeks in a little container of cold water, only to be hurled in a bag, taken to who knows where, tossed in the fridge, then—Oh! I totally forgot we had tofu! Hence why so many of our favorite recipes offer some warmth:
Bake. Fry. Simmer in sauce. All lovely options, but my go-to technique is none of these—it’s blanching. I learned the trick cookbook author Fuchsia Dunlop, who specializes in Chinese cuisine. In her book Every Grain of Rice she writes:
“Blanch plain white tofu in hot salted water before use, to freshen up its flavor and warm it before you combine it with other ingredients.”
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Just as blanching vegetables not only cooks but seasons them, too, blanching tofu brings out its best texture and flavor. And it only takes a minute to accomplish these results. The quickest dunk in salty, simmering water relaxes the protein into its happiest mood—warm, supple, and creamy, like fresh mozzarella cheese. (That said: “Do not allow the water to boil or the tofu will become porous and less tender.”)
Dunlop puts the technique toward saucy dishes like mapo doufu. But I use it even more simply. My routine: Start a pot of brown rice. Start a pot of salty water. Meanwhile, roast whatever vegetables are about to go bad. Mix together peanut butter, miso paste, rice vinegar, and water, by sight and to taste. (Also try: the turmeric-tahini and roasted garlic dressings, above.) When the rice is done and the water is simmering, cube the tofu and add it for a minute to two. Drain well. Add a bed of rice to a bowl. Top with tofu and veggies. Drizzle with peanut-miso sauce. Dinner! Happy me. Happy tofu.
What’s your favorite way to cook tofu?
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