This Nifty Technique Improves the Texture of *Any* Slaw

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More than anything, my recent Paloma Slushie experiment reminded me that I hadn’t been spending enough time with Julia Tursen’s Small Victories.

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So I packed it, along with the Therm-a-rests, sleeping bags, bug spray, and headlamps, camping over the July Fourth weekend. During those four days in the Adirondacks, I read it whenever I could—by the fire, at the picnic table, on the fishing rock—and, as is often the case when I flip through SV, I dog-eared many pages, drafted a to-make recipe list, and made a grocery list.

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I returned home eager to make a cabbage slaw using a technique Julia employs in her Radicchio Slaw with Warm Bacon Dressing recipe: massaging the shredded radicchio with salt and olive oil before dressing them. The technique, she notes, works with kale, cabbage, Brussels sprouts, and even dandelion greens.

I know, I know—massaging kale: you’ve all done this. But have you massaged with both salt and olive oil? And have you ever massaged other greens, such as cabbage? I had not.

I gave the technique a go on a head of shredded napa cabbage and couldn’t be more pleased with the results. The cabbage, with some aggressive squeezes—Julia encourages really scrunching the vegetables—softened right up, visibly shrinking in size, and becoming more saturated in hue. This technique serves the same purpose as the salting-and-rinsing method described in The Slanted Door cookbook, which is to help the shreds of cabbage relax, allowing them to better absorb the flavor of the dressing, be it miso-carrot, sesame, or buttermilk. Julia’s technique, which requires no rinsing, is easier and works just as well.

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Here I’ve tossed the cabbage with a simple Thai dressing—fresh lime juice, fish sauce, sugar, and Sriracha—and a ton of chopped cilantro, scallions, and vegetables. It comes together in a snap, and tastes light and summery. I’ve added shredded chicken to make it more of a meal, but it could work as a side salad, too, a cooling accompaniment to grilled fish or steak.

A Few Tips

Add more crunch: Here, crisp carrots and bell peppers offer a nice contrast to the soft cabbage and herbs, but many vegetables could work: thinly sliced snap or snow peas, or julienned jicama, kohlrabi, and green papaya.

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Keep it vegetarian or vegan: Omit the fish sauce and make a homemade no-fish sauce. Leave out the chicken and add nuts, such as toasted cashews and peanuts, or cubes of baked tofu.

Change it up: Make the dressing slightly creamier by stirring in a few tablespoons of unsweetened coconut milk. Give the salad a sweet element with the addition of julienned mango. Add more herbs or substitute Thai basil or mint for the cilantro. Omit the carrots or peppers and use julienned cucumbers.

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